Japanese Charcoal Grill at Gonsuke in Lake Sagami


2018.08.08

NAVITIME TRAVEL EDITOR

A Temple to Charcoal on the Shores of Lake Sagami: Gonsuke

Gonsuke in Hachioji is about as far as one can get from the megacity while never actually leaving its limits. Gonsuke is not so much a restaurant as it is a village—or maybe a temple, where pilgrims who have made the voyage to the wilds of Hachioji crowd around charcoal braziers loaded with choice cuts, toasting their faith with belts of sake.

  • A Temple to Charcoal on the Shores of Lake Sagami: Gonsuke

    A Temple to Charcoal on the Shores of Lake Sagami: Gonsuke

    In the shadow of Mount Takao, and near the shores of Sagami Lake, Gonsuke occupies sprawling grounds. After arriving, diners are dispatched to seats in either the main hall or one of the outlying cottages. Wandering the paths around the pond or the labyrinthine corridors, the impression is of stepping back in time to a night of wine and poetry at the pleasure palace of one of the shogun’s profligate brothers-in-law. Even if you are sharing Gonsuke with hundreds of other diners, the relative distance from the heart of the city makes it feel as if you’ve come across an undiscovered country.

    A Temple to Charcoal on the Shores of Lake Sagami: Gonsuke

    A Temple to Charcoal on the Shores of Lake Sagami: Gonsuke

    The star of the show is the charcoal grill set into each table. The best option is to order one of the set menus that begin with cold starters before moving on to charcoal-grilled robatayaki meats, seafood, vegetables and mushrooms and then closing with a simple, elegant dessert. The dress code is casual, as many are returning from a day up Mount Takao, and remember that anything you wear will carry the perfume of charcoal until laundry day.

    A Temple to Charcoal on the Shores of Lake Sagami: Gonsuke

    A Temple to Charcoal on the Shores of Lake Sagami: Gonsuke

    The menu is deep and varied, everything executed with care in Gonsuke’s kitchens or cooked a foot away from you, over charcoal. The selection of fresh fish is surprising for a robatayaki joint, even one as expansive as Gonsuke. As for drinks, beer feels right on a humid summer night when the sound of cicadas zips through the main hall, but it has to be sake when the mountain air turns chilly. At Gonsuke, the sake is warmed over the charcoal, the perfect match for grilled meats or chilled sashimi.

    A Temple to Charcoal on the Shores of Lake Sagami: Gonsuke

    A Temple to Charcoal on the Shores of Lake Sagami: Gonsuke

    As good as the food at Gonsuke is, it’s undeniable that you could find worthy robatayaki in any ward of the city, so how does Gonsuke fill the house? The grounds themselves are half the appeal. Make sure to wander, maybe even get lost. Grab a map to save yourself the embarrassment of not being able to find your way out.

    A Temple to Charcoal on the Shores of Lake Sagami: Gonsuke

    A Temple to Charcoal on the Shores of Lake Sagami: Gonsuke

    A stop by Gonsuke is the perfect cap to a day scaling Mount Takao or wandering the hiking trails around its base, but if you are making the trip specifically for Gonsuke, the best option is the Chuo Main Line, a straight shot from the city to the country. Alighting at Takaosanguchi Station, there are taxis available for the run out to Gonsuke, but the restaurant also offers its own shuttle service. There’s no need to pre-arrange pickup by the shuttle, but call ahead for times at the station; consider booking the trip ahead of time if you’re coming as a larger party. For those who drive out from Tokyo, the restaurant has a large lot.

    Takaosan
    place
    Tokyo
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    高尾山名主 いろりの里 ごん助
    place
    東京都八王子市南浅川町4068
    phone
    0426612700
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