Of all the superlatives used to describe Koenji, there isn’t one that reflects it badly: the coolest, the most underground, the best vintage shops, the most hipsters. A wander around this pocket sized neighbourhood’s unsystematic streets is the best way to get a feel for the ambience. Just be sure to venture down unknown alleyways and into hidden shops as there’s a whole lot more to Koenji than first meets the eye.
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01
Join in the Awa Odori festival
![Join in the Awa Odori festival]()
Join in the Awa Odori festival
One of the most celebrated and in my opinion the most fun and accessible of Tokyo’s festivals, the Awa Odori festival which takes place in Koenji every August is a fusion of spectacular colourful costumes and high energy, happy group dancing. The dance which originates in Tokushima Prefecture is no secret to Tokyoites and the annual celebration in Koenji attracts a pretty mind blowing number of spectators. Grab some snacks and drinks and set up camp at Pal Street early for the best views of the contagious smiles of the enthusiastic Awa Odori dancers.
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02
Take a stroll along Pal Street
![Take a stroll along Pal Street]()
Take a stroll along Pal Street
Heading southwest out of Koenji Station brings you to one of the main stretches of the neighbourhood: Pal Street. This semi covered shopping street runs for one kilometre down to Shin-Koenji Station taking you on a journey through a huge variety of shops. As well as chain cafes, restaurants, karaoke, shops, and small supermarkets, the pink lantern lined street is home to unique and independent shops and cafes ranging from some of the town’s favourite vintage shops, including the questionably named SLUT, to quiet, homely cafes such as Honohono.
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03
Eat doughnuts at Floresta Koenji
![Eat doughnuts at Floresta Koenji]()
Eat doughnuts at Floresta Koenji
It would be impossible to recommend just the north or south side of Koenji. While the majority of the vintage shops lie to the south, the labyrinth of passages that meander north of the station are crammed full of unique businesses that are sure to excite any passerby. Floresta Koenji, a five minute walk directly north of the station, has been on the Koenji scene for the last eight years most famed for its whole wheat white flour mix doughnuts. While the plain doughnuts remain the regulars’ flavour of choice, they offer a fun mix of flavours including pumpkin and cinnamon as well as the ultimate “kawaii” doughnuts complete with animal faces.
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4.5
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04
Shop at the retro shops
![Shop at the retro shops]()
Shop at the retro shops
One of the only neighbourhoods to offer true competition for the ever popular Shimokitazawa, Koenji has Tokyo’s most underground crowd travelling from miles around for a day of retro shopping. Though most famous for its impossibly cool selection of vintage shops, Koenji is also a hotspot for record lovers looking to pick up both Japanese and Western oldies. The bright yellow exterior of Los Apson can be found in a more residential part of the southern side of Koenji, which also stocks some quirky clothing and nicknacks.
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05
Visit Shukuhozan Koenji Shrine
![Visit Shukuhozan Koenji Shrine]()
Visit Shukuhozan Koenji Shrine
While a walk around Koenji is far from stressful, slipping onto the grounds of the Shukuhozan Koenji Shrine a 10 minute walk southeast of the station takes you into a whole new quiet and spiritual world. Tucked behind the police station, the shrine has few visitors making it a peaceful stroll away from the shops. The long nature filled stretch that leads to the temple is made up of dozens of Japanese maple trees which go through a beautiful transition of colours in fall.
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