Small Tokyo:Ryogoku-Sumo Mecca

Two minutes’ walk from JR Ryogoku station lies Kokugikan, the biggest dedicated arena for sumo wrestling in the world. Even though sumo is not legally recognized as the national sport of Japan, in practice, it undoubtedly is. Expect the lines to be long and even to see people camp in front of the ticket booths days in advance, before any of the major tournaments. Kokugikan accommodates more than 10,000 people, but still tickets can be hard to get. This is especially true for the finals in the major tournaments, taking place in Tokyo during January, May and September.

If you do not manage to score a ticket, or in case your visit to Japan does not coincide with any of the tournaments, there is still chance to watch well-grown men do things to each other. Many stables, or “sumobeya” as they are called in Japanese, accept visitors to the morning practice. However, make sure to contact them beforehand. A list with current contact information to several stables can be found at the Nihon Sumo Kyokai website.

Be advised that few staff speak English, so try to have a Japanese speaker arrange the appointment for you. In recent years, it seems that some stables have had bad experiences from visitors not respecting the rules when watching the morning practice. Therefore, they’re not as welcoming to foreign visitors as they used to be. If you manage to get in, make sure to follow the rules that the stable will inform you about beforehand. In general, do not do anything that can be distracting for the wrestlers, and behave in a respectful manner.

While in Ryogoku, also make sure to try out chanko-nabe, the staple food for sumo wrestlers. Chanko is a hot pot that can contain pretty much anything. Vegetables, tofu, mushrooms and some sort of meat are usually the foundation. There are plenty of restaurants serving chanko in Ryogoku. One recommendation is Chanko Tomoegata. At lunchtime, a set meal can be had for as little as 1000 yen. Expect to pay at least two to three times more at dinnertime.

In addition, why not shop for some Sumo-clothes while you are in the neighborhood? Lion-do stocks everything from underwear to suits in sizes up to 8L.

If you need a break from all things sumo, head over to Kyu-Yasuda Tei-en, a traditional Japanese garden with roots going back to the Edo Period. The garden is open for visitors and entrance is free. It is located a few minutes’ walk from Kokugikan.

Next to Kyu-Yasuda Tei-en lies Yokoamicho Park, where you can find a memorial dedicated to all the people who lost their lives in the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake. There is also a small museum in the park that explains what happened during the disaster that claimed over 100 000 lives.

The Edo-Tokyo Museum is also located nearby.

Posts by Said Karlsson

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