Shinjuku:A Trip Down Omoide Yokocho(Memory Lane)


2017.03.22

NAVITIME TRAVEL EDITOR

Omoide Yokocho
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    In the heart of Shinjuku, hugging the tracks by the station’s West Exit, a block of bars, cafes and shops hangs on to the vibe of the postwar 1950s.

    Omoide Yokocho

    Omoide Yokocho

    Shinjuku changes even as it stays the same. The area grew and evolved consistently through much of the last century, even after the near-total destruction wrought by Allied bombing in 1945. In the post-war period, it quickly resumed its role as a major railway transfer hub and entertainment district. Today, Shinjuku is home to everything from high-end shopping and dining, to a red-light district, batting cages, an area known for its LGBT bars, and more.

    Amid the bustle, however, there are pockets that seem frozen in time. One is Golden Gai, a dense collection of tiny specialty bars northeast of JR Shinjuku Station. Another is a special strip of land which goes by several different names, just by the tracks beside a large Uniqlo store close to the station.

    Omoide Yokocho

    Omoide Yokocho

    Its official name, Omoide Yokocho, translates as “Memory Lane,” a reference to the post-war atmosphere that went more or less unchanged until 1999, when it was gutted by fire. Since then, it’s been carefully reconstructed to exude that same down-on-its-luck je ne sais quoi.

    Memory Lane is sometimes known by another name, Shonben Yokocho, or “Piss Alley,” due to a lack of proper facilities back in the day, leading patrons to relieve themselves against the walls, willy nilly, as it were. Today, there are working, albeit antiquated facilities, rest assured.

    There are about 300 shops of various sorts in Memory Lane and many still retain a connection to the hardscrabble years during and after the war, when dietary staples were heavily rationed. Under the Allied Occupation, things like flour for noodles were tightly controlled, sparking an explosion in black market activities that had one of its centers in Shinjuku.

    Omoide Yokocho

    Omoide Yokocho

    Where eating out was concerned, motsu, the entrails and organs of animals, was not controlled, and became a key source of protein. Today, as many as 20 of the bars in Memory Lane specialize in motsu-yaki, grilled offal that is surprisingly tasty. Each bar is different, and fare ranges from the exotic (fried salamander) to standards, such as yakitori (grilled chicken).

    While Memory Lane may be guilty of cultivating a certain rustic appearance, it’s by no means a tourist attraction, and remains the favored haunt of locals of all stripes. A smattering of basic Japanese phrases will go a long way here, though English menus are fairly common.

    While many of the drinking spots can be found in the middle of the Memory Lane block, accessible by narrow walking paths, another kind of shop can be found lining the main road facing west. These sell discount tickets for everything from baseball games to trains and concerts, as well as gift certificates for retail stores. If you feel like watching a movie, it’s worth visiting one of these to knock off as much as half the price of a ticket at one of the nearby theaters.

    Omoide Yokocho

    Omoide Yokocho

    Other shops can also be found in Memory Lane, including middle- and high-grade coffee houses, discount suit vendors, ramen shops, and a real-estate office — altogether a motley and interesting collection of goods, fare and services that is always worth a look, if not a few hours of your time.

    Shinjuku
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    Tokyo
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    4-2-10 Shinjuku-ku Tokyo

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    • Anshin Oyado Tokyo Shinjuku Station - Male Only
    • Anshin Oyado Tokyo Shinjuku Station - Male Only
    • Anshin Oyado Tokyo Shinjuku Station - Male Only
    • Anshin Oyado Tokyo Shinjuku Station - Male Only
    • Anshin Oyado Tokyo Shinjuku Station - Male Only

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